Neckartalradweg and first cycling impressions in Germany

Since my arrival six days ago, I've had opportunities to cycle on cycle paths and roads for about 200 km. Shortly after I built up my bike (only a few scratches from the baggage handlers), I rode a 60 km loop counterclockwise from Riederich to Bad Urach, up the hill to Hülben, northwest to Neuffen through Frickenhausen to Nürtingen, then back southwest through Bempflingen back home. Frickenhausen is, of course, where Dr. Evil was eventually able to obtain fricken lasers to put on the sharks' heads. I did not see Frau Farbissina.

Google Map (sorry, I wish I had GPS software to show you exactly where I went) which shows the area. If you zoom in, you can find the smaller towns I mention here.

On Monday, I rode a clockwise loop north to the Neckar river, rode northeast along the Neckartalradweg (Neckar Valley cycle path) to Wernau, and then southwest to Lenningen, then up the hill to Hochwang, back down from Hülben and stopped for a cool treat in Bad Urach. Bad Urach is where my aunt has had medical treatment--a nice little place. I bought my mom a beautiful handmade birthday card for her 75th birthday which is only 9 days from today. It was then 30 minutes home to Riederich.

On Tuesday evening, some people my aunt knows do a weekly ride of about 90 minutes through the countryside, and we sat and talked for about that long afterwards at a local pub. I got some good advice from them, one man named Heiner (Heinrich, presumably) even lent me some maps for the week.

Some observations:

The good:

• The scenery is beautiful. It's only minutes from the countryside no matter where you go.
• There are tough climbs nearby. The Swabian Alp up to Hülben and to Hochwang involves climbs of about 4 km with 7% grades. The Hochwang climb from Lenningen was particularly stunning, with evergreens all around and fruit trees in bloom.
• It seems like everybody rides a bike here--it's hard to believe at first. It truly is an option here for people who don't want to walk or drive everywhere. Bus service is sparse where I'm staying. When I look out the window of the house where I'm staying, some cyclists will ride by every few minutes.
• The roads in the countryside are in outstanding condition. I thought the roads in France were good, but these are unbelievable. They are mostly some kind of chip seal, but smooth. They have no shoulders, but as I've said over and over, that is good--all the debris falls off to the side.
• Drivers are used to delays, especially in towns, and they drive carefully. There are people on bikes, rollerblades, on foot, other drivers, etc. everywhere. I did have one encounter while riding during business hours--a truck driver used their horn while following me on a congested road. It so happened that an ambulance with lights on came in the other direction, so I pulled off to the side which allowed the truck driver to pass, so I'm not quite sure whether it was simply to alert me to their presence or something else. Anyway, didn't matter.
• Roundabouts!
• There is no mandatory helmet law so I have made several short trips ohne Helm and have let my flowing locks blow in the wind and left my helmet at home. My aunts believe that there is a helmet law for some reason (totally contradicted by local practice) and have mentioned that wearing a helmet is something they have no interest in doing, which contributes to their cycling days being over. Tell that to your local bicycle advocate.
• It's easy to find the way to e.g. Nürtingen when you can see Nürtingerstrasse. Along with the large yellow signs at the intersections, it's a snap.

The bad:

• drivers are somewhat agressive which means they will travel in platoons, meaning that drivers are very eager to overtake. This is the same thing I encountered in France four years ago. Tailgating is fairly common, so when you approach oncoming traffic, you've got to pay attention to an oncoming driver possibly making a mistake.
• travel by bicycle can be slow when the cycle paths have to be used--it can be confusing travelling through intersections and descents can be hairy when you can't see what might be at the end of the hedgerow. I was out for about five hours on Monday and between cycle path/road interchanges and pulling out my now beaten cycling map of the area I only rode about 80 km. I suspect that my first truly enjoyable 100 km+ ride will be in an area where the towns are not so close together.
• many bike paths are mandatory for cyclists, or at least are posted that way. Many times I and other cyclists have used the roads with no problem. It is confusing to have special cycling infrastructure present when it is clearly much safer and convenient to use the roadway. Ahh, just like home!
• Metzingen is a maze of streets. I thought I had a good sense of direction until I arrived here. I know where the main street and the train station is but that is about it.

After 4 flat tires in the past 400 km or so, I've just bought some wider tires for my bike--a pair of 28mm race Continental Grand Prix 4000s. One local bike shop ordered them in for me special and reluctantly sold them to me using my credit card. Metzingen is a small town but there are three bike shops, and the one with the business hours I'm accustomed to has received my business so far.

Happy riding, and kids, wear your helmets. I'll try to take more pictures--I'd love to ride a tandem some day so that the bike would have a navigator/photographer in the back.

Gruß aus Deutschland